Weapons & Armour Construction
~Materials and Construction Rules~
- All Armour, Weapons or Shields may be inspected at any time for safety concerns and if any are found the Armour, Weapon or Shield will be disallowed from play until proper repairs have been made and presented to a representative of the Game.
Materials that could be used to build a weapon are very limited and are tightly controlled for safety concerns, and any weapon made with, or entirely out of, any material not found on the following list will be removed from the Game.
- No part of any weapon may be made out of metal, without Game approval.
- All weapon cores shall be made out of Schedule 40 ( thick wall, not the thin wall ) P.V.C. plastic pipe, or its direct equivalent in electrical conduit plastic pipe ( thick wall again and not the thin ) and nothing else. All other materials are banned.
- All pipe weapon cores must be wrapped completely in duct tape before applying any blade or any feature of the weapon. The first step with any new weapon is wrapping the pipe, including the ends, and the ends must be capped with at least two layers of duct tape. Wrapping the pipe first is a safety precaution in case the weapon breaks then a piece is less likely to snap off and fly free.
- All weapon cores are to remain hollow.
- All striking surfaces of the weapon must be made out of dense close cell foam and nothing else. All other materials are banned. Some examples of dense closed cell foam are workshop floor mats (usually one side has a cross-hatched anti-slip surface), pipe insulation is also closed cell. Closed cell foam when looked at from the side looks like a bunch of small bubbles all pushed together. Our standard is roughly 5/8" Grey Shop Floor Mat.
- All striking surfaces of the weapon must remain duct tape grey, and may not be coloured differently, unless magically enchanted.
- All pieces are to be securely affixed to the weapon core with Duct tape and/or hockey style fabric tape and nothing else. All other materials are banned or need approval from a representative of The MMA before use.
- Fabric ( cloth material ) may be added to a weapon in strips for strength, or as permanently affixed banners. Fabric must be no thicker than denim and soft, not hardened. Fabric may not exceed a size of 6 inches wide and 8 inches long unless it is a Banner.
- All ends of all weapons must have a thrusting tip. To make a Thrusting tip cut 4 round circles from a piece of closed cell foam equal to the size of the pipe used in the weapon. Stack the circles like a pile of coins and then lay out a small strip of duct tape sticky side up. Lay the coins still stacked together on their side on one end of the duct tape and roll along the length of the strip. Cut the ends of the tube of duct tape that exceeds the foam every 1/4 inch or so and fold ends over on both sides. Affix a small square of tape to hold the cut strips in place. Only roll the foam two or three revolutions so that the sides of duct tape are only 2 or 3 layers thick. Any more and the tip may be deemed to stiff for use.
- Any affixed spike must be made out of tape and foam only and must meet thrusting tip standards.
- All weapon striking surfaces must allow for some compression when tested by a representative of the Game.
~Melee Weapons~
Knife
Knives, Daggers, Dirks all fall under the Weapon Skill of Knife. The length of a Knife may not exceed the length of the distance between the fingertips and the inside of the elbow with the arm bent at 90 degrees of the Player using the knife, from tip to end.
PVC minimum - 1/2 inch, PVC maximum - 3/4 inch, Blade Width minimum - 1/2 inch, Blade Width maximum - 1 inch,
Blade Layer minimum - 2, Blade Layer maximum - 2, Thrusting tip layers - 4, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Short Swords
Gladius, Cutlass and some Sabres all fall under the Weapon Skill of Short Swords. The length of a short sword may not exceed the length of the distance between the hand when holding the grip of the sword with that arm straight against their side, and the ground. A blade that does not touch the ground, but is longer than the Knife requirements, are Short Swords.
PVC minimum - 1/2 inch, PVC maximum - 3/4 inch, Blade Width minimum from pipe to edge of foam- 1/2 inch, Blade Width maximum - 1 inch,
Blade Layer minimum - 2 with 1/2 inch PVC OR 3 with 3/4 PVC, Thrusting tip layers - 4, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Long Swords
Bastard swords, Scimitars and Broad swords all fall under the Weapon Skill of Long Swords. The length of a long sword may not exceed the length of the distance between the solar plexus and the ground. Sword tips that do not reach the solar plexus when the pommel of the sword ( the bottom of the sword ) the ground, but are longer than the short sword requirements, are long swords.
PVC minimum - 3/4 inch, PVC maximum - 1 inch, Blade Width minimum from pipe to edge of foam - 3/4 inch, Blade Width maximum - 1.5 inch,
Blade Layer minimum - 3, Thrusting tip layers - 4, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Great Swords
Claymore, Flam Berge and Zwei-handers all fall under the Weapon Skill of Great Swords. Any sword that is too long for a Player to use as a Long Sword counts as a Great Sword.
PVC minimum - 1 inch, PVC maximum - 1.5 inch, Blade Width minimum from pipe to edge of foam - 1 inch, Blade Width maximum - 3 inch,
Blade Layer minimum - 3 with 1 inch PVC, 4 with 1.5 inch PVC, Thrusting tip layers- 5, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
One Handed Maces
Clubs, Hammers and Morning Stars all fall under the Weapon Skill of Maces. The length of a mace may not exceed the length of the distance between the hand when holding onto the lowest part of the grip of the mace with the arm straight against the side, and the ground. This is the same test a a Short Sword.
PVC minimum - 3/4 inch, PVC maximum - 1 inch, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from pipe to edge of foam - 1 inch, Thrusting tip layer minimum - 4, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Great Maces
Horseman's Hammer, Hercules Clubs, and Mauls all fall under the Weapon Skill of Great Maces. Any mace that is too long for a Player to use as a one handed mace counts as a Great Mace. Any two handed, single mass, blunt headed, primarily non-bladed weapon, will be considered a Great Mace.
PVC minimum - 1 inch, PVC maximum - 1 & 1/4 inch, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from pipe to edge of foam - 2 inch,
Thrusting tip layers- 5, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Ball and Chains
Ball and Chains, Mace and Chains, Nunchaku all fall under the Weapon Skill of Ball and Chain. The length of a ball and chain may not exceed the length of the distance between the hand when holding onto the lowest part of the grip of the handle with the arm straight against the side, and the ground. This is the same test as a Short Sword.
PVC is allowed as the handle, but no PVC may be used at all in the head, or striking mass, of the ball. The weapon ball shall attach with rope or plastic chain, with the details of the weapon attached to it, and those being made of tape and foam only. There shall be no more than 6 inches of exposed rope/chain at any part of the weapon. The safety test of a Ball and Chain rope length is it must be completely unable to wrap around a wrist and lock itself up with its own head over the rope.
PVC minimum - N/A, PVC maximum - N/A, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from core to edge of foam - 1 inch, Striking Edge Width maximum measured from core to edge of foam - 8 inches, Thrusting tip layer minimum - N/A, Rope minimum thickness - 1/2 inch, Rope maximum thickness - 1 inch, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Great Flails
The two-handed flail is a hand weapon derived from the agricultural tool of the same name, commonly used in threshing. These were deployed in Germany and Central Europe in the later Middle Ages. This weapon consists of a hinged or roped bar connected to a longer shaft. Any Ball and Chain that is too long for a Player to use as a one handed Ball and Chain counts as a Great Flail.
PVC is allowed on a Great Flail but as the handle only. The weapons real core shall be a piece of rope or plastic chain that is affixed at the top of the pipe, which is then connected to a length of flexible core (garden hose, duct tape pipe insulation, golf bag tubes, etc.) with a thrusting tip attached. From the end of the handle on the weapon core shall consist of rope, with the details of the weapon attached to it. There shall be no more than 6 inches of exposed rope at any part of the weapon. The safety test of a Ball and Chain rope length is it must be completely unable to wrap around a wrist and lock itself up with its own head over the rope.
PVC minimum - 3/4 inch, PVC maximum - 1 & 1/4 inch, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from core to edge of foam - 1 inch, Striking Edge Width maximum measured from core to edge of foam - 8 inches, Thrusting tip layer minimum - 5, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
One Handed Axes
War Axes, Battle Axes and Bipennis ( or 2-Headed ) Axes all fall under the Weapon Skill of One Handed Axes. The length of a one handed axe may not exceed the length of the distance between the hand when holding onto the lowest part of the grip of the axe with the arm straight against the side, and the ground. This is the same test as a Short Sword.
PVC minimum - 3/4 inch, PVC maximum - 1 inch, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from pipe to edge of foam - 2 inches, Thrusting tip layer minimum - 4, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Great Axes
Pole Axes, Halberds and Voulges all fall under the Weapon Skill of Great Axe. Any axe that is too long for a Player to use as a one handed axe counts as a Great Axe. Any two handed, single mass headed and bladed weapon that is primarily used to strike with a swinging/chopping motion, will be considered a Great Axe.
PVC minimum - 1 inch, PVC maximum - 1 & 1/2 inch, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from pipe to edge of foam - 3 inch, Thrusting tip layer minimum - 5, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Pole Arms and Spears
Pikes, Spears and Glaives all fall under the Weapon Skill of Pole Arms and Spears. The length of a Pole Arm or Spear must exceed the length of the distance between the solar plexus and the ground. Pole Arm and Spear tips that do not reach the solar plexus when the butt of the weapon ( the bottom of the pole or spear ) is on the ground are too short. They instead would be considered exotic versions of other weapon types, and the Player using them would need that Weapon Proficiency and not Pole Arm and Spear.
PVC minimum - 3/4 inch, PVC maximum - 1 & 1/2 inch, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from pipe to edge of foam - 1&1/2 inch, Striking Edge Width maximum measured from pipe to edge of foam - , 4 inches, Thrusting tip layer minimum - 5, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Staff
Iron, Bo and Quarter Staves all fall under the Weapon Skill of Staves. The length of a Staff must exceed the length of the distance between the solar plexus and the ground. Staff tips that do not reach the solar plexus when the butt of the weapon ( the bottom of the Staff ) is on the ground are too short. They instead would be considered exotic versions of other weapon types, and the Player using them would need that Weapon Proficiency and not Staff.
PVC minimum - 1 inch, PVC maximum - 1.5 inch, Striking Edge Width minimum measured from pipe to edge of foam - 1 inch, Striking Edge Width maximum measured from pipe to edge of foam - , 2 inches, Striking Edge Height minimum - 12 inches, Thrusting tip layer minimum - 5, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
~Ranged Weapons~
Throwing Weapons
Knives, Hammers, Axes and Sling Stones all fall under the Weapon Skill of Thrown Weapons. To be used as a Thrown Weapon a weapon must have no PVC in it at all. Only weapons made completely out of tape and foam alone may be used to throw.
PVC minimum - N/A, PVC maximum - N/A, Striking Edge Width minimum - 3 layers of closed cell foam , Striking Edge Width maximum - , varies with style, Striking Edge Height minimum - varies with style, Striking Edge Height maximum - varies with style, Striking surface must be duct tape grey.
Javelins
must be made from a golf club tube ( the black plastic tubes to hold the individual clubs ) with a tennis ball duct taped to the end of it. Duct tape used must be grey. The rest of the entire length of the Javelin must be black, to distinguish it from a Ballista Bolt.
Bows
Bows that do not exceed the length of the distance between the solar plexus and the ground are Short bows and may only fire a 2 foot long arrow.
Bows that are above the solar plexus are considered Long bows and may fire a 3 foot arrow for greater range and power.
No Bow in the Mixed Medieval Arts will register higher than 30 pounds when a fish scale is placed on the string and pulled to the length of the arrow to be used in that bow. Any Bow that registers higher than a 30 pound pull test will be deemed illegal for use.
Compound Bows are not allowed in the MMA.
The game standard for bow construction is Schedule 40 PVC or modern fibreglas (tent) poles. A couple of lengths of these firmly hockey taped together makes a fine bow. Mason Twine makes a good Bow string, but it needs to be adjusted a few times after first firing it for it will stretch to a point, then stop.
Crossbows
Crossbows that do not exceed the length of the distance between the arm pit and the fingertips of one arm are Light Crossbows and may only fire a 1 foot long bolt.
Crossbows that are longer than the one arm reach are considered Heavy Crossbows and may fire a 2 foot arrow for greater range and power.
are tricky to build so let us just say find an existing Crossbow on the field, or ask a representative of the MMA to show you one of ours, and design from there. The explanation I could offer here would be hard to write, more confusing to read, and variable in results.
Arrows/Bolts
Arrows shall be made of 3/8" or 5/16" wooden dowel with a minimum of four layers of foam for the thrusting tip and must be Duct tape.
2 layers of of foam rectangles no less than 1 inch wide must then be individually wrapped around the shaft of the arrow just below the thrusting tip to support the tip from rocking on the shaft.
Where the tip meets the wrapped support must be reinforced with a wrap of colour hockey tape.
All flights must be made out of duct tape and may be of any colour.
All exposed wood must be wrapped in at least 1 layer of hockey or Duct tape, to prevent the arrow from breaking into two individual pieces if stepped on or struck.
Arrows made in this way when looking at the colours from tip to flight will be, the colour of duct tape for the thrusting tip, the colour of the hockey tape wrapped around the tip, the colour of the shaft, and the colour of the duct tape used for the flights. These arrow colours can be used to tell individual archers apart, and more importantly to who gets the arrow back when it is found again. Archers may add a colour scheme of their arrows on their Permanent Character Sheet in the Troll Booth, so that when arrows are found and turned into the Troll Booth, we may find their long lost owners.
The colours for all NPC/Service worker arrows will be a grey duct tape tip, with a white hockey tape wrap, white shaft, and duct tape grey flights. This colour scheme should not be used on any other arrow because if it lost and then rediscovered in the woods, it will immediately be put in the NPC armoury. No arrow found in/on the lands may be fired until thoroughly inspected for safety.
Grenados
~~Can only be used by Characters with the Skill of "Create Black Powder"~~
must be made of a small water balloon, filled with no more than 2 ounces of baby powder, inflated with air only, and held in an asterisk ( a six pointed star like this * ) of half width duct tape ( make sure that when you rip the duct tape, place the two sides together sticky side to sticky side so that it does not stick to the balloon ), and no more than 1/3 of a paper clip with the last 1/8th of an inch of the paper clip bent to 90 degrees, forced through one of the 6 points of the duct tape star to poke out the other side, and then covered and secured in place with another little piece of tape. This will act as a firing pin. Lay the asterisk of duct tape open, place your filled and inflated balloon on it, fold up the six star points and tape in place with small strips.
Flintlocks
~~Can only be used by Characters with the Skill of "Flintlocks"~~
Flintlocks must fire only a single load, red plastic, toy cap gun shell and must always maintain the spirit and atmosphere of the Game, and therefore must resemble a Flintlock.
Muskets
~~Can only be used by Characters with the Skill of "Musket"~~
are a tricky description. To make the core of the weapon you will - need a length of 3 inch sched 40 PVC pipe, a 4 foot and a 1 foot or so of 1 and 1/2 inch sched 40 PVC, 2 or 3 feet of surgical rubber tube, a 2 inch long bolt 1/4 thickness with three nuts, two pressure lock rings and one washer at least 1/4 inch bigger on all sides of the nut. Then you will need to find an existing Musketeer, or Jarl Magnamus, for the step by step building info.
Musket balls must be made of hollow plastic golf training balls, filled with nothing other than sand, and sealed with candle wax.
Siege weapons
~~Can only be used by Characters with the Skill of "Siege"~~
must be able to fire a 5 inch round dodge ball, or a bolt following all the rules of Javelin construction but with the length of the bolt coloured Silver to distinguish it from a Javelin, no less than 50 paces before it hits the ground, and because of the many varied possible designs, all Siege Weapons must be individually game approved.
~Traps~
Basic: Trip-Alarm
Details
The most basic of Traps designed for warning, not hunting.
Design
Find natural anchor points or place two sticks upright, sticking out of the ground about a foot high, on opposite sides of a path. Attach a length of fishing line no more than 6 feet long to the tops of the upright sticks to connect them together. Attach bells, or a small tin can with a few heavy bolts and washers in it, to the fishing line so that they hang freely. The Trap should make a sound if disturbed.
To Disarm
Character must spend 5 seconds to study the trap, then may attempt to pull out the upright sticks without having the Trap make a sound. Characters trying to disarm this Trap in this manner may only touch the upright sticks and no other part of the Trap.
If attached to natural anchor points the Character may attempt to pull/snap the fishing line without having the Trap make a sound. Characters trying to disarm the Trap in this manner may only touch the fishing line and no other part of the Trap.
The Damage
The victim of this trap takes no damage, but may alert the trap setter to the alarm.
Basic: Trip-Snare
Details
A simple Trap by design, but clever enough to hold all but biggest.
Design
Find a natural anchor point on one side of a path. Attach a length of fishing line no more than 6 feet long to the anchor point about a foot and a half above the ground. To the other side of the line firmly secure to a tennis ball wrapped in grey duct tape. String the line across the path and place the tennis ball in a manner as to have the line suspended tight in the air on a downward angle from the top of the upright to the tennis ball on the ground. To accomplish this a pair of small second sticks can be placed in front of the tennis ball to hold it back in place firmly. The distance between the anchor point and ball must be 6 foot or less. When disturbed the ball should release from it place and travel towards the disturbing target. If the ball hits the target, the target is Entangled, as per the Druid Prayer, same durations and effects.
To Disarm
Character must spend 5 seconds to study the trap, then may attempt to pull out the upright stick. Characters trying to disarm this Trap in this manner may only touch the upright stick and no other part of the Trap.
If attached to natural anchor points the Character may attempt to pull/snap the fishing line. Characters trying to disarm the Trap in this manner may only touch the fishing line and no other part of the Trap.
The Damage
The victim of this trap takes no damage, but are held in place for 3M by the ankle hit.
Advanced: Step-Spike
Details
Brutal and fast and down right scary to witness as the ground suddenly explodes with flying spikes. The key to this one is placement, look for ground height changes where targets are already stepping down from something, or for obstacles where a target is already stepping over something, and place this beauty there. Conceal carefully, and wait for the startled screams from the woods.
Design
Take a piece of Sched 40 PVC no more than 3 1/2 feet in length and on to one end attach a PVC coupler bent at 45 degrees ( these are very inexpensive and can be purchased probably at the same place you are getting your Sched 40 PVC pipe for your weapons. ). Into the other end of the 45 attach a second piece of Sched 40 PVC pipe no more than 8 inches in length. It should now resemble a hockey stick. Cut a piece of Sched 40 PVC pipe to 1 foot long, this will be the stabilizer. Attach ( duct tape ) the stabilizer to the 3 1/2 foot pole right above the 45 degree coupler, so that if you hold the pole vertically, this piece would be horizontal, 6 inches on one side of the pole and 6 inches on the other. At the end of the 8 inch pipe, or the blade of the hockey stick, attach a Sched 40 PVC coupler that resembles a letter T. Cut 2 pieces of Sched 40 PVC pipe to 6 inches in length and attach one in each side of the T coupler, and turn the coupler until it lies in the same direction as the cross pipe above the 45 degree coupler. The top of the 3 1/2 foot pipe and all exposed ends must have a thrusting tip no less than 1 inch round and 1 inch tall. The top half of the 3 1/2 foot pole must also have 'Spikes' made out of foam and duct tape no greater than 6 inches in height and duct tape grey in colour. When placed on the ground the 'blade of the hockey stick' or the trigger should be rising off the ground at a 45 degree angle. When this trigger is stepped on the far end will rise up, like stepping on a rake. If any part of the trap springs up and makes contact with a target player, they take 3 points of damage to whatever Body or Limb part it hit starting with armour points first. This damage does not count as a single handed blade weapon and forearm / leg armour can not block it.
To Disarm
Character must spend 10 seconds to study the Trap, then they may pick it up and turn it over, or upside down, and lay it back down where it was, unconcealed easy to see.
The Damage
A Step-Spike with no extra added foam and Duct Tape spikes on the striking bar will do 3 HP of damage.
A Step-Spike with added spikes on the striking bar will do 6 HP of damage.
Advanced: Step-Mine
Details
The near perfect trap. Easy to carry, easy to set, easy to check but also easy to forget. Be wary with your footsteps anywhere in the wilds, Step-Mines do not care how long they have to wait to kill.
Design
Take a small balloon no more than 6 inches round and inflate it. Make a small pit in the ground just big enough to allow half of the balloon to be buried. At the bottom of this pit place a small stick with little hard branches on it to assist in the popping of the balloon, and then place the balloon on top of it, in the pit. The pit must be no more than a finger length deep, this is a safety precaution and must be adhered to always, no exceptions, ever. Conceal the top of the balloon with leaves and twigs and a few branches to again assist in the popping of the balloon. When stepped on, and if the balloon pops, the target player receives 3 Hit Points of damage regardless of armour to what ever Leg set off the Trap. If the trap is fallen upon and set off by a target players Body or Arms, that area takes the damage again regardless of armour.
To Disarm
Character must spend 10 seconds to study the Trap, then they may remove the leaves and twigs over the balloon and then remove the balloon. Character must then deflate the balloon without it popping. Should the balloon pop the disarming Character will take 3 Hit Points to Body. Character must then put the deflated balloon in thier pocket or pouch and dispose of it later.
Advanced: Bear Trap
Details
Concealed steel spring loaded jaws, patiently waiting to bite.
Design
Take two equal 2 - 4 feet pieces of 3/4 inch PVC Sched 40 pipe and mark the exact middle of a piece, and 3 inches in on both ends. Starting in the middle, use a heat gun to form the PVC into a capitol letter U. Heat the 3 inches on the end and flatten the PVC (press it tightly together between 2 pieces of wood), and make sure to do so in a manner which when you lay the "U" flat down on a table, the edge of the flattened section, and NOT the flattened part, lies against the table top. Let cool. Heat the end 3 inches again, but mainly at the 3" mark. Bend the flattened pieces up like a hockey stick blade. Do the same to the other 3" end. When the "U" is flat on a table, both 3"ends should be flattened, edge to the table, and bent upwards, away from the table, 45 degrees.
Do the same with the second equal length of PVC.
Place the two sides together so that the bent ends overlap each other. Drill a 5/8" hole where the two intersect through both pieces. Do the same to the other side. Take a standard length of fibreglas tent pole (the usually black ones with metal sleeves one one end and an elastic strand within it) and cut it to a length where it is at least 2 inches longer than the distance between the 2 pairs of upright bends. Place the tent pole through one end, across the centre, and through the other end and leave 1 inch on the outside of both sides. Use a liberal amount of black hockey tape on those protruding 1" pieces of tent pole, and wrap until pole is locked in place LOOSELY. Pole must be allowed to free spin within the holes. Place a piece of 2x4 over the PVC of one side,, under the tent pole crossbar, and over the other PVC end. This will hold the trap open. Drill a second but smaller hole on both upright ends that will accommodate a tooth pick within it. Do not make this hole any bigger than need be.
Set the trap in a low lying area, set open with tooth picks in the small holes to keep it open, and conceal with debris.
To Disarm
Only a Character with Disarm Advanced Traps may help in disarming a Bear trap, or any other Advanced Trap.
The jaws must be held open as the tooth picks are removed. Then the jaws can slowly be closed, and the trap can be left exposed in the place where it was found.
Master: Rock-Fall
Details
Sometimes the classics are the best.
Design
Set a trip wire across a path or take a stick of some length ( 4 - 6 feet ) and lay it across a path underneath some trees with sturdy branches about 7 -8 feet high. Attach a sturdy length of fishing line to a top of a basket/box capable of holding no more than 6 tennis balls in size. All tennis balls must be wrapped in Duct Tape completely, and there can be no more than 6 Rocks in the basket/box. Place basket/box on a branch in the tree above the center of the path. Then run the fishing line back down to the stick on the ground and tie to the end closest to the tree. When attaching the line to the branch make sure the line is taut and not loose for this will greatly diminish the effectiveness of the Trap. When the branch is stepped upon / disturbed the basket/box should tip over pouring its contents over the path. Being hit by the Rock-Fall does 3 Hit Points to any and every Body or Limb struck. Armour is effective protection versus a Rock-Fall and may be used against it.
To Disarm
Character must spend 15 seconds to study the Trap, then they may pick up the stick and unattach the fishing line. The basket/box may not be touched until the fishing line is removed from the stick. Once the fishing line is free the Disarming Character may reach up and take down the basket/box filled with rocks and place it visibly on the side of the path. If at any time during Disarming the basket/box of rocks should spill or tip and hit a Player, they are damaged appropriately.
Master: Multi-Step-Spike
Details
If you take a good idea and run with it, you get this nasty surprise in the dark.
Design
Refer to how to design a Step-Spike and make a minimum of 2 of them to a maximum of 4. The stabilizer in the Multi-Step-Spike may be up to 6 feet long, and the Triggers may be connected T coupler to T coupler for the enitre 6 foot length.
The Multi-Step-Spike does 6 points of damage to whatever Body or Limb part it hit starting with armour points first. This damage does not count as a single handed blade weapon and forearm / leg armour can not block it.
To Disarm
Character must spend 15 seconds to study the Trap, then they may pick it up and turn it over, or upside down, and lay it back down where it was, unconcealed easy to see.
Master: Acid-Trip
Details
An elegant Trap, with ugly results.
*NOTE* To make this trap, Character must also know the Skill of Create Acid, or secure the Acid from an outside source. This Skill only teaches the mechanics of constructing the trap line, and not the process of how to actually make the Acid.
Design
Take a stick of some length ( 4 - 6 feet ) and lay it across a path underneath some trees with sturdy branches about 7 -8 feet high. Attach a length of fishing line to the bottom of a plastic cup no larger than 500 ml in size and fill with Acid ( please see the Skills section for Create Acid ). Place cup on a branch in the tree above the center of the path. Then run the fishing line over a higher branch on the tree a foot or so above the cup, and back down to the stick on the ground and tie to the end closest to the tree. When attaching the line to the branch make sure the line is taut and not loose for this will greatly diminish the effectiveness of the Trap. When the branch is stepped upon / disturbed the cup should tip over pouring its contents over the path. Being hit by the acid does 6 Hit Points direct to Body or Limb depending on what part got hit, regardless of armour.
To Disarm
Character must spend 15 seconds to study the Trap, then they may pick up the stick and unattach the fishing line. The cup may not be touched until the fishing line is removed from the stick. Once the fishing line is free the Disarming Character may reach up and take down the acid and pour it on the side of the path. The Disarming Character must then take the cup with them to dispose of later. If at any time during Disarming the cup of acid should spill or tip and hit a target player they are damaged appropriately.
~Armour Materials and Construction Rules~
All Armour, Weapons or Shields may be inspected at any time for safety concerns and if any are found the Armour, Weapon or Shield will be disallowed from play until proper repairs have been made and presented to a representative of the Game.
The Game used standard for plate armour would be plastic 45 Gallon drums, or blue pickle barrels as some call them. This barrel material can be cut into all sorts of shapes and be gently heated to hold curves and shapes. Materials that could be used to build a suit of armour are too many to list in full, so a brief list of what is not allowed.
- Fasteners, such as bolts, rivets, clasps, etc. must not be allowed to protrude more than 1/2 inch from the fixed point.
- No plastic that is less than 1/8th of an inch will be allowed unless it is a manufactured piece of protective equipment.
- There must be no sharp edges or rigid points.
- Any affixed spike must be made out of tape and foam only and must meet thrusting tip standards.
~Armour for personal safety ~
A Character must have the appropriate Armour Skill to receive any Armour Point bonuses from wearing Armour, BUT, any Player who wishes, is strongly advised to wear protective chest, elbow, forearm and knee pads at minimum, shin, shoulder and hip if desired. Armour worn without the Player possessing the appropriate Armour Skill must be worn under concealing clothing, ie. a robe, cape, large tunic etc. so that it is nearly concealed/unobservable at a distance of 20 feet. Armour used in this manner gives no extra Armour Points to the Player, it is worn only for the personal protection and comfort of the Player and that is all.
Protective Head Gear
Players are STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to wear Protective Head Gear and/or safety eye wear AT ALL TIMES when Out of Town. When In Town, Protective Head Gear may at times still wished to be worn by some.
Protective Head Gear would be any sports helmet with a hard shell as a base, then modified to resemble a Helmet more suited to the medieval setting of The MMA. Hockey helmets with a front grill style face protector is the recommended standard suggested by the Game. Due to the near limitless styles of helmets, the Game and its representatives reserve the right to have all modified helmets approved for safe use on the battlefield.
If the helmet has no front grill for face and eye protection, or, if no helmet is worn, then protective Eye wear should be worn. C.S.A. ( Canadian Safety Authority ) safety glasses with a strap to hold them securely in place while running, sports goggles or glasses are the minimum required and they must protect the eye from all angles, even the sides.
Light Armour
A Character with the Skill Light Armour may wear Vambraces or forearm guards made out of a rigid material that will not easily bend. Light Armour also allows the use of a Battle Skirt, or Hip Plates. These are armoured plates that are suspended from a belt and hang over the hips and upper legs of a Player. The plates of the Skirt must also be made out of rigid material that will not easily bend.
Light Armour blocks all single hand bladed attacks. Knives, Daggers, all one handed swords and all thrown weapons and bows. Any attack from these weapons does no damage to the Armoured Player, as it is deflected harmlessly. All Axes, Maces, and two handed weapons do normal damage to the forearm, hip or leg, depending on where the blow landed, as well as Flintlocks, Muskets and Siege weapons.
Light Armour adds no Armour Points at all, just the ability to block/deflect all Thrown, Bow and one handed bladed weapons.
Medium Armour
The game standard for Medium Armour is any hockey style shoulder and chest protector or a baseball style back catchers chest protector that is soft and bendable, being made mostly of padding and material. Variations on materials that could be used for constructing Medium armour are too many to list, but all rules listed under the Materials and Construction Rules apply and the suit will need to be presented to a representative of the Game prior to first use, and will be inspected afterwards for any safety concerns.
Medium Armour adds +1 Body Armour Point to the Character with the Medium Armour Skill.
If player has upper arm armour that qualifies as Medium Armour and is attached to the upper arm securely and not suspended from the shoulder solely, then that arm receives +1 Arm Armour Point.
If player has upper leg armour that qualifies as Medium Armour and is attached to the upper leg securely and not suspended from the waist or a belt solely, then that leg receives +1 Leg Armour Point.
Heavy Armour
The game standard for Heavy Armour is any hockey or football shoulder and chest protector that is rigid and not easily bendable. Blue rain barrel / 45 gallon plastic drum used as breast plates and armour pieces also are Game standard. Heavy Armour may be flexible, like a shirt of scale mail, but the plates must be rigid and solid. Variations on materials that could be used for constructing Heavy armour are too many to list, but all rules listed under the Materials and Construction Rules apply and the suit will need to be presented to a representative of the Game prior to first use, and will be subjected to be inspected afterwards for any safety concerns.
Heavy Armour adds +2 Body Armour Points to the Character with the Heavy Armour Skill.
If player has upper arm armour that qualifies as Heavy Armour and is attached to the upper arm securely and not suspended from the shoulder solely, then that arm receives +2 Arm Armour Points. If player has upper leg armour that qualifies as Heavy Armour and is attached to the upper leg securely and not suspended from the waist or a belt solely, then that leg receives +2 Leg Armour Points.
~Shields~
Variations on materials that could be used for constructing Shields are too many to list, but all rules listed under the Materials and Construction Rules apply and the suit will need to be presented to a representative of the Game prior to first use, and will be subjected to be inspected afterwards for any safety concerns.
All edges of all Shields must be rounded and be wrapped in a minimum 3/4 inch garden hose and tied securely in place. This is done less to protect the shield and more to protect our weapons from repeatedly beating on Shield edges.
All shields must have some degree of flexibility to prevent injuries.
All wooden and metal based Shields must have 1 inch of foam secured to the garden hose tied around every edge as well and first must be approved for use by a representative of The MMA.
No metal protrusions over 1/2 inch will be allowed on the face of the shield ( bolts and nuts for holding the handles on ) and none over 1/2 inch long on the back of the Shield.
Small Shield size restrictions
The field test to determine a Small Shield is as follows. The shield using Player must hold one arm straight out to their side. A Player using a Small Shield must be able to place the top of the shield against their armpit, and still touch the bottom of the shield with the finger tips of that raised arm.
Large Shield size restrictions
The field test to determine a Large Shield is as follows. The shield must be too tall to be a Small Shield for that Player, and must still be below the solar plexus ( the spot where the stomach meets the ribs in the middle of the front of a person ) of the shield using Player with the bottom of the shield resting on the ground.
Tower Shield size restrictions
The field test to determine a Tower Shield is as follows. The shield must be taller than the solar plexus ( the spot where the stomach meets the ribs in the middle of the front of a person ) of the shield using Player with the bottom of the shield resting on the ground.
